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Pre-orders for the new journal of olfactory culture Alabastron, to which I contributed an article, are now available!

Recently I’ve been challenging a new carrier: academic writing. From my background of exhibiting various olfactory art installations, I got interested in meta-communication in olfaction depicted in Japanese classical literature, mainly The Tale of Genji. However this essay has nothing to do with my art – purely an academic essay.

Title: “Oikaze: The Role of Heian Scent Culture and Olfactive Communication in The Tale of Genji”
Author: Maki Ueda

Alabastron launches soon.
We’re thrilled to announce that Alabastron is available for preordering.
A journal that bridges the gap between academia and the public to explore aromatic history and culture, Alabastron is co-edited by Nuri McBride and Saskia Wilson-Brown. 

SHIPS JULY 10, 2024
Preorder:
https://alabastronjournal.com/preorder

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Things to Do in Ishigaki Island

Ishigaki Island is very popular these days. Many people visit us. We hope you will find this information useful for sightseeing. We will sell fragrance souvenirs of Ishigaki Island to those who visit this page (reservation required)! We also recommend our perfume making workshop to make memories of Ishigaki Island. Please contact us.

Ishigaki Island is a place of work for me, where I have lived for more than 10 years, so I am familiar with supermarkets and DIY, but you may know more about tourist information than me…. In this day and age, there is a lot of information on the Internet, and since your stay is so short, please use your intuition and go on an adventure. Everyone is friendly, and since you are in Japan, you shouldn’t have much trouble! Based on this assumption, I have compiled a list of my favorite places to go. These are the places that don’t really “look” good from a tourist’s point of view. The island is a fast-changing place, so please always check the latest information by yourself.

〜Food shops 

Here are some of the places I often go to relax. Rather than the “attractive” food that tourists are looking for, they are all common restaurants that are crowded with local customers. They are not Okinawan cuisine at all (laugh), and they are all in the countryside, and all for lunch. The locals choose restaurants that are not frequented by tourists. In truth, I don’t want to tell anyone about these restaurants because they don’t have a lot of capacity.

Teuchi-kishimen Kagi (handmade kishimen) (Ibaruma)
The aroma of the dashi broth is wonderful, and I love the total simplicity of the space with its wabi-sabi aesthetic. You must call to confirm because it is either closed or sold out quickly even if it is open.

Tonkatsu Riki (Yonehara)
Tonkatsu restaurant in the same village. A hidden gem loved by locals for many years.

Kusabobo (Yonehara)
A restaurant in the same village. A hidden gem loved by the locals.

Cafe Akubi (Nosoko)
A hidden restaurant that you really don’t want to tell anyone about. Reservations required.

Ishigaki Shoten (Sakieda)
Vietnamese restaurant using Ishigaki ingredients. The restaurant is owned by musician Yoshiyuki Ishigaki. I sometimes go there when I want to eat ethnic food.

Shunya Banchan (Shiraho)
A restaurant that is affordable but tastes like a ryotei (Japanese-style restaurant). Reservations are required. Take-out daily meals Ban-chan is also available in town.

Smile Smoothie (Ibaruma)
Smoothies to accompany your drive. It also has a tasteful general store.

The following areas in town: I sometimes go there. From the top, in order of most frequently visited.

Ishigakijima Suisan Eat-in
I like fish, so when I eat lunch in town, I tend to go here for the cheapest option.

Chinen Shoukai’s Onisasa

Beef soup at Parlor Anburera

Yakiniku lunch at Misaki Gyu’s main restaurant

Chouichirou
Easy to eat but with the taste of kappo (Japanese cooking). A favorite of local gourmets.

Komatsu
Yaeyama soba with seafood broth. It is easy to park a car here, so I usually go here for soba.


[VEGETARIAN]

My son is pure vegetarian, grown up in this island. Here are some useful tips, even though there are few vegetarian places.

Tommy’s Bread (Yonehara)
A bakery in the same village. A hidden gem, loved by the locals for many years.

Garopan (Nagura)
Italian food. This is the home of my dog, Chiyoko. Order pizza margerita, or mix vegetable pizza, or 4 cheese pizza.

Forestale Uno (Nosoko)
(Closed as of 2023. But the lacquerware gallery is worth a visit) “Italian with Urushi”. You can enjoy Italian food in the forest with lacquerware made by lacquerware artists. Everything tastes more tender when served on lacquerware. A restaurant that satisfies all the senses. Order “tofu-yo-no-pasta”, a pasta that uses fermented tofu as a cream. It’s delicious.

BARAQUE
Vegetarian cafe. I like soy meat, so I often go here because it is next to the gym.

Nuchigusa Cafe
View of the ocean yoga studio. Vegetarian curry is delicious.

Funakura no Sato
If you’re looking for a little celebration or date night, this is the place to be. Good atmosphere and local food both day and night.

Raikatsuyo (Kunatsuyu)
Yaeyama soba noodles with rich broth

Nutstown Coffee Roasters (when working remotely)
Rehellow Beach (for a resort atmosphere)
Puka Puka (when you want to enjoy the resort atmosphere)

〜Dinner at night

The top tourist favorites Hitoshi and Yamamoto are not options for us locals. There are other gourmet restaurants that are just as good and much cheaper. Basically, we don’t eat out much at night, but if we dare to go, it’s in order of how often we go there, from top to bottom. (Note: Don’t expect to see any “installations”.

Kaijin Izakaya & Sushi: Cafe Umi-no-Hana (Benefactor’s restaurant. (A favorite of young local families)
Kaijin Izakaya: Azumaru
Kaijin Izakaya: Genmaru Shinkawa
Kaijin Sushi: Eiko
Yakiniku: Higa-chan
Yakiniku: Otokichi
Yakiniku: Watanabe (High Quality)

Normal Izakaya: Teppen, Koteppen, Doteppen, Mannen Housaku, Raifuya, Funakura no Sato too

If you want to take your time to savor the pairings, Hoshinoya Taketomi Island, Fusaki “Hare”.

The local delicacy of Ishigaki Island is actually sashimi! Fresh tuna sashimi is available all year round. Most people buy sashimi and eat it at home. The “Sakana Tempura” is also addictive. It is fun to visit sashimi restaurants. (They are usually open after 2:00 p.m.) Donakata made this “Sashimiya Map” for us:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/0/viewer?mid=1P523tnwSHz_tL00OmvlIpAgAAI0&ll=24.343354838218335%2C124.1571915&z=15

〜Souvenirs

We also sell Ishigaki Island fragrances at our atelier! Reservations required. Please contact us.

Osato Shoten (Osato): hand-netted baskets, organic vegetables, etc.

Yachimunkan (Shiraho): For those who love hand knitting. Hands-on production available.

JA Yurateiku Market (in town): Local farmers’ market

KAYAK (in town): A select store with good taste

Hellow Campers (in town): For camp lovers

Ichigusukumode (in town): T-shirt shop

~Fun and games

Ma Pei Mountaineering (Nosoko): There is a trailhead where you can cheat your way up from the middle of the mountain
https://maps.app.goo.gl/64nGdHLqoGL2g1ar7?g_st=ic

Mt. Yarabudake (Sakieda): I hear it’s spectacular! I’ve never been there and want to go.
https://maps.app.goo.gl/GmMgaB5f2kf4JZKa8?g_st=ic

Crystal Beach (Yamahara) Bring a colander and pick up crystals!
https://goo.gl/maps/5eZpmsG9CXMrykEo7

Science Garden (Kabira, closed)
https://www.passion-jp.com/sciencegardern/

Otemaru ni: Parking with a view of Kabira Bay + of course, Kabira Bay.
https://goo.gl/maps/cjpF11RaRKo9cttG7

Sunset drive along Nagura Bay

SUP and other nature guides are recommended by Nijiro no Sakana

Sabani tour in Kuura village, Yoshida Sabani Tour
Snorkeling on a traditional Okinawan sailing boat, the Sabani, is a unique and rewarding experience!

Shisa experience at Rinka (Yamahara)

R

Of course, we also offer incense preparation at our atelier! It is currently very popular among foreigners.

If you like fragrance, please refer to this article!

〜アトリエ周辺のスポット〜

アトリエ周辺一帯が、わたしのアトリエ。それくらいインスピレーションたくさんの環境です。観光の一助となれば。全てほぼ徒歩圏内です。

青の洞窟

https://goo.gl/maps/uFSSskH69ToCM4QW8?coh=178571&entry=tt
石垣島随一の観光スポット。陽の高い昼間の、干潮から満潮に向かう時間帯に行ってください。(満潮から干潮に向かう時間帯はぜったいダメ。離岸流で何人も流されてます。)スノーケルセット、できればライフジャケットがあるといいと思います。ピクニックだけでも楽しい。干潮の時間であれば水深が浅いので、ビーサンかマリンシューズ履いて歩いて青の洞窟まで行けます。

米原ビーチ

https://goo.gl/maps/vA2zXUJJptRyjpTc9?coh=178571&entry=tt
美しい砂浜のビーチです。泳ぐならインリーフで、満潮前後が良い。干潮だと泳ぐところもなく、危険生物との距離も近くなります。リーフエッジまで行くのは、慣れた人やプロに頼んで連れて行ってもらいましょう。

米原ヤシ林

https://goo.gl/maps/DT3cg2RBfjgpwQo88?coh=178571&entry=tt
森の散策路があります。手軽にヤシの森を体験できます。入口のジュース屋さん「ぱぱや」でさとうきびジュースを注文して、歩きながら飲むのが好きです。むかいの「ヤシ屋」さんには軽食もあります。4月には日没後に八重山ヒメボタルが飛び交います。

ヤシ記念館
https://goo.gl/maps/9FCFQ47men8FDSVo7?coh=178571&entry=tt
屋上からの眺めは絶景です。また、よく手入れされた庭園を散策するのも良し。私の犬の散歩コースです。

シーサー農園
https://goo.gl/maps/iBWCAYbASViWzhZU6?coh=178571&entry=tt
シーサーを売っている焼き物屋さん「米子焼き」付随のテーマパーク。広大な敷地に、ユニークなシーサー像が並ぶその景観は圧巻。

工房谷池
https://goo.gl/maps/cSVnvw8KYs1NgQZ3A?coh=178571&entry=tt
私がとても好きな器を作る方の工房。ヤシの灰を使った釉薬など、地域の素材を使ってらっしゃいます。訪問は、お電話してからにしましょう。

EARTH ROOTS
石垣市桴海654近辺 週末のみオープン?

ナチュラル系アクセサリー屋さん。私がつけているアクセサリーはほとんどここのもの! ビーチの漂着物が、アクセサリの素材。とてもセンスのいい友人です。

アトリエ周辺の宿

アトリエのある米原エリアが、石垣島でいちばん魅力的なエリアと自負してます! アトリエはなんと、米原ビーチを含む国定公園内に位置します。ちょっと西表島みたいな雰囲気もあり、波照間のように星もきれいで、石垣島を何倍も楽しめますよ。バスの本数が少なく不便なので、レンタカー必須。

サウスシー  大人数 一棟貸し(徒歩15分)

海を見下ろす絶景でBBQもできる宿。米原ビーチまで徒歩で行ける。おすすめ。


青の洞窟 大人数 一棟貸し(アトリエのほぼ隣)
http://aonodoukutsu.jp/
プールもついています。たぶんBBQもできるはず。


Regina Ishigaki 大人数 一棟貸し(徒歩3分)
https://goo.gl/maps/1j7kxxYqJoqVrmm86?coh=178573&entry=tt
海を見下ろす絶景でBBQもできる。

リッチリゾン 個室Bed and Breakfast 手軽な素泊まり宿泊施設(徒歩1分)
https://richreson.jp/ishigaki/

moment of island 2名様 一棟貸し(徒歩10分)
https://www.airbnb.jp/rooms/621878024915624386?check_in=2023-02-11&check_out=2023-02-12&source_impression_id=p3_1675168076_%2BnqrqQRHtf2qAPkq

米原ビーチステイLuana 家族向け一棟貸し(徒歩10分)
yoneharabeachstayruana.com

〜その他の宿〜

フサキビーチリゾート
アートイベントなどでもご協力させていただいている宿。シェフの腕も良いですし、雰囲気も良いです。手軽なリゾートが楽しめます。送迎も豊富なのでレンタカー不要。

星のや 竹富島
これ以上の宿はなかなかありません…。

あちみぃん
野底にあるコテージ貸し。友人のやっている宿です。レンタカー必須。

Villa Nohoho
久宇良集落にあるコテージ貸し。オランダ人の友人がやっている宿です。レンタカー必須。

その他、私が泊まるなら、島人の資本の宿に泊まります。(みやひら、ビーチホテルサンシャイン、エメラルドアイル)

*情報は2023年のものですので、最新情報はご自分でチェックしてください。

Posted on

Pre-orders for the new journal of olfactory culture Alabastron, to which I contributed an article, are now available!

Recently I’ve been challenging a new carrier: academic writing. From my background of exhibiting various olfactory art installations, I got interested in meta-communication in olfaction depicted in Japanese classical literature, mainly The Tale of Genji. However this essay has nothing to do with my art – purely an academic essay.

Title: “Oikaze: The Role of Heian Scent Culture and Olfactive Communication in The Tale of Genji”
Author: Maki Ueda

SHIPS JULY 10, 2024
Preorder:
https://alabastronjournal.com/preorder

Alabastron launches soon.
We’re thrilled to announce that Alabastron is available for preordering.
A journal that bridges the gap between academia and the public to explore aromatic history and culture, Alabastron is co-edited by Nuri McBride and Saskia Wilson-Brown. 

Posted on

Online Workshop VOL.2: Kõdõ – The Tale of Genji - 

Learn the art of kõdõ. Maki Ueda (olfactory artist) has arranged for you to experience “Utsusemikou”, a kumiko based on the motif of “The Tale of Genji”, at home. (Kumiko is a game of guessing the fragrance in kõdõ. It is said that more than 1,000 varieties have been handed down to the present day.)

You will receive +- 10 fragrance sample bottles and perfume strips by post. The fragrances you will receive are woody aromatic scents as agarwood that you can smell at an actual kõdõ session.

DATE

3/3 (Wed) 23:59 UTC +09:00 (Japan Time) Payment deadline
3/28 (Sun) 19:00-20:30 UTC +09:00 (Japan Time) The Workshop

TICKET

  • Payment can be made by PayPal (credit card accepted)
  • Please be sure to provide your address when making the payment by Paypal.
  • Zoom Link will be sent to you by 24 hours before the workshop starts, to the email address you have signed up for by Paypal. (You will receive email from: pepeandmaki@gmail.com.)
  • No refunds will be given. Even if you can’t participate in real time, you will be able to watch the recording for 3 days.
  • The recording will be shared internally in the group only. However if you don’t want your face to be recorded, you can participate by mute.
  • There are no plans to hold the workshop again so far, so if you are interested, please take this opportunity!
  • You can also join with a partner with your ticket.

Note:

PRICE: 75 EUR
– fragrances, perfume strips, shipping, tax and paypal fee included
– only 10 places available

Pay 75 EUR with Paypal (Subscription Closed)

Story

The Princess “The Shell of the Locust” (Utsusemi), sensing Genji’s creeping presence in the darkness by his scent, fled her bed, leaving behind a piece of clothing that looked like a cicada shell. There would have been no woman who would not have fallen for him, and he would have been the most attractive and beautiful man in the world. So why did she fled? In this session, we will use the fragrance to imagine (or fantasize?) the night crawling of Genji and the game between men and women.

Without knowing the story you won’t be able to enjoy the session. The knowledge from literature plays an essential role in kõdõ. Please read at least these two chapters before the workshop:
– The Broom Tree
– The Shell of the Locust
(p. 34 – p.57)
http://www.public-library.uk/ebooks/39/11.pdf

About Kodo

Along with the tea ceremony and the art of flower arranging, kõdõ is one of three classical refinements that developed into formalized ceremonies in the 16th century Muromachi period. The practice utilizes incense to create a space for participants to share emotions, imagination, and connections with people living in a different time and space, and is often accompanied by smelling games known as genjikō and kumikō, among others.

The principles behind kõdõ are about more than the scents themselves, however. With its deep roots in Japanese culture, kõdõ touches upon semiotics (the study of symbols and their interpretations), rhetoric, and communication. The result is a ceremony and art with a potentially vast impact.

Mining her own rich catalogue for examples, Maki Ueda will start the workshop with a talk about how conceptual interpretations of kõdõ could be applied in the western artistic context. This will be followed by a thoughtful and artistic interpretation of the kõdõ ceremony.

Posted on

Online Workshop VOL.1 Extraction

photo: Extracted Papaya Flower Fragrance

What do you smell if you walk around the city?  Savory fragrance from food stands and restaurants, green and fresh scent in a market, salty sea bleezes, or stinking garbage?  How does your home smell like?  What’s the source of the smell?


In this workshop, participants are going to explore the smells of daily lives and the environment, and extract smells from the materials.

(The material can be anything – from spices like cinnamon to materials like newspaper, but it has to have clear odor.  )

[TOOLS AND MATERIALS TO PREPARE]

– teabags (x2)

– ziplock (x2)

– measuring cup for 50 ml (x1)

– scissor  (x1)

– other necessary tool to make the material small if necessary

– electric kettle, thermos pot, or microwave (x1)

– kitchen bowl for Bain Marie- pyrex is better than stainless (x1)

– wodka, odourless (+- 50ml)

– kitchen thermometer to measure 50 – 80 degrees celsius  (x1)

– cup or bottle to receive the fragrance  (x1)

– perfume strip, or just cotton swab (x2)

– fragrant material (preferably no liquid)      

… for example …

  • rubber baloons
  • antique books
  • cheese burger
  • stinky pillow cover (if you can throw it away)

[TIME TABLE]

00:00 – 00:05 Introduction

00:05 – 00:15 Process the material and make it as fine as possible

00:15 – 00:20 Stuff it in ziplock / Prepare Bain Marie

00:20 – 01:10 Heat it

01:10-01:15 Filter it

01:15 -01:30 Sharing and closing

[PRECAUTIONS]

  • Keep your lab/kitchen well aired.
  • Don’t smoke nearby because vodka is flammable. 
  • In case you get nauseous, go for a walk in fresh air, and drink a glass of milk.
  • Do not use a cooking table that use gas during the workshop.
  • Don’t smell the vapor directly.  Use the perfume strip always to protect your nose.
  • Wear latex gloves to protect your hands if you are allergic to alcohol.

[DATE]

Sunday, February 28, 10:30-12:00 CET(UTC +0100)
= Sunday, February 28, 18:30-20:00 JST(UTC +0900)

[PRICE]

35 EUR (incl. 5 EUR handling fee)

  • Payment can be made via PayPal (credit card accepted)
  • The registration deadline is 24 hours before the workshop starts.
  • Zoom link will be sent to the email address you signed up for Paypal by 24 hours before the workshop starts, from the email address pepeandmaki@gmail.com
  • No refunds available. Even if you are unable to participate, you will be able to watch the recording for 3 days (Actually you can learn pretty much from the recordings, so don’t worry!) .
  • If you don’t want yourself to be recorded, you can participate on mute.
  • Participating with children or partner is welcome.
  • Spoken language: English

Note:

[PAYMENT]

35 EUR (incl. 5 EUR handling fee)

PHOTO IMPRESSIONS

Scent material: Any fragrance is good
Finely chop in a way tailored to the material
When we do it as a group, we have a friendly relationship. You can feel the atmosphere online as well.
Eventually, the extract is filtered.
Online Extraction Workshop in Corona Disaster in October 2020 at Willem de Kooning Academy of Art in Rotterdam, Netherlands. Some Students Followed the Workshop at Home.